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What Do Beekeepers Do in Spring?

What Do Beekeepers Do in Spring?


Chris has been a beekeeper for almost a decade. He enjoys learning conversing about beekeeping and learning about bees from others.

A Beekeeper's Spring Tasks

Spring is the time that most people associate with honey bees. It is the time of year that keepers pick up 3-pound packages of bees and nucs to start beekeeping or expand an existing apiary. Fruit farmers may be looking for last-minute hives to help pollinate their crop. Existing reports about winter hive losses are discussed, and new reports are released,

Phew, that is a lot of information already! But what hands-on tasks does a beekeeper perform in the spring? In the spring a beekeeper will:

  • Feed honey bees honey or sugar water
  • Feed bees pollen and/or pollen patties
  • Place new hives
  • Replace queens
  • Begin pest control
  • Check laying patterns
  • Verify honey supers are ready
  • Monitor production

Feeding Honey Bees Sugar Water or Honey

The winter is at an end, and it is time to help the honey bees grow their numbers so they can produce more honey. To keep the activity level high, many beekeepers will give sugar water to their honey bees. Fewer will give them honey from the surplus of the previous year.

The mixture for sugar water is generally 2 parts sugar to 1 part water. Some beekeepers will include an additive with this. Additives are meant to stimulate brood production, keep water from growing mold and algae, and better support the beehive.

Mass Feed

Some beekeepers will do a mass feed where they leave a container out for all the bees in the area. This works for some beekeepers, but raccoons and wild animals will also get into this and may make a mess. Protection may be necessary to prevent the waste of the product.

Entrance Feeder

Other beekeepers will do an entrance feeder that sits in the entrance of the beehive and restricts access to the honey or sugar water. There is the possibility that a stronger hive will rob the weaker hives and slow the growth of a hive. And there are several forms on hive feeders. Some take the place of a frame inside of the beehive; others use an empty box that sits on top of the hive.

Feeding Honey Bees Pollen

Pollen is the only protein young bees will have to eat. Honey bees collect pollen while flying around looking for nectar. They store the pollen on their back legs in small grooves called pollen sacks. When bees go back to the hive, they pass it along to be stored. The pollen is mixed with enzymes to create something called bee bread. This is what the young bees will be fed to help them grow and strengthen the hive.

At the beginning of spring, beehives are given open access to pollen and/or pollen patties to help them bolster their growth and development and keep improving the number of honey bees in the hive. Larger operations may have an apiary feeder where all the bees in the area can come and get pollen. I prefer to use pollen patties currently, but I generally have no more than 10 hives at a time. I would recommend pollen patties for most beekeepers.

Placing New Hives

Spring is the most common time to place new beehives. New hives in early spring are usually three-pound packages. A three-pound package comes with about 10,000 bees or three pounds and a mated queen. It will take about six weeks for them to build the honeycomb in the main box and the second box.

These lower two boxes are called bee boxes around here. The other boxes will be honey boxes. Bee boxes are usually deep supers and honey boxes are usually medium supers. This is just the height of the box, although there is also a shallow super.

Later in the spring, there will be nucs to buy, hives to split, extractions, and swarms to catch. A nuc is somewhat like a package of bees but there are usually four or five frames that are already filled out with brood, honey, and pollen to give the hive a firm foundation.

Splitting a Hive

Splitting a hive means that a hive is particularly strong and can afford to be split, which is essentially taking about 3 pounds of bees and the existing queen from the hive and starting another hive with them. Taking some of the resources from the original hive to give the new hive a firm foundation of development.

When a hive swarms, it means that the existing queen leaves with generally about half the bees in the hive. This is the reason that you take the existing queen from the hive and put her in the new one.

Extractions

Extractions are when feral bees move into a place that is a nuisance for someone and begin building their hive there. I have taken hives out of someone's wall, an attic, a porch ceiling, etc. This is when a hive swarms and the swarm moves in someplace not desired. One main issue with this is that people usually don't like cutting a hole in the wall. A beekeeper needs to capture the queen in this case for the hive to move out. This can be an extremely tough situation.

Swarm

A swarm is when the beehive is too crowded, the queen will leave, and about half the honey bees will follow her. When the queen gets tired of flying she will land and the bees will ball around her. This is protecting her and giving her a chance to rest until the honey bees have found a location for a beehive.

During this swarming, it is possible to catch the swarm and put them into a beehive. They don't always move in though. I have had to catch a swarm twice before it would take to the beehive.

Replacing the Queen

When a queen is laying eggs erratically or not with a central pattern, laying is slowing down, the honey bees are too aggressive, or the hive is just not performing; it is time to replace the queen.

The queen controls the beehive almost completely with pheromones. This will determine if the honey bees are focused and producing and building like they are desired to be doing, if they are more aggressive or more laid back, i.e., how much they sting, and the overall population of the beehive.

The process is as easy as removing and killing the existing queen honey bee and letting the beehive make a new queen or purchase a mated queen and save the hive about 21 days of development and time. If purchasing a queen, she will be mated and ready to start laying eggs as soon as the other bees free her from her cage. If letting the beehive create their own queen then it will be at least 21 days before a new queen will be ready to lay eggs.

Beginning Pest Control

The two main pests for honey bees would be the Varroa mite and the small hive beetle. These two can destroy a hive pretty quickly once they get a foot in the door. The Varroa mite will attach themselves to bees as well as get sealed in with the honey bee larva. They will destroy the population and cause the beehive to collapse.

Varroa Mites

Varroa can reproduce every 10 days. They first target drone honey bees being capped, the cells are larger, and there are three more days for a drone to leave its cell than a worker bee. In 12 weeks of summer, the Varroa can have a population explosion of up to 12 times. Then when the drone bees are kicked out, and the drones aren't being produced anymore, there is a sudden target of worker bee larva attack, and a population crisis occurs, and the beehive collapses.

European honey bees are almost defenseless against the Varroa mite, and the Russian honey bee has a higher rate of resistance. But the Russian honey bee is also much more aggressive in general than the European honey bee. I would almost never recommend a Russian honey bee hive to a beginner. Most beekeepers use oxalic acid to kill Varroa mites with a treatment schedule. The vaporized oxalic acid does not harm the honey bee, but it will kill the varroa mites.

Small Hive Beetles

Small hive beetles can trick guard honey bees into letting them pass with the use of their antennae and will pretend to be another honey bee. The small hive beetle will lay eggs in the corners of the hive, and then the larva will hatch and eat honey, pollen, and bee brood and let their excrement contaminate honey as well.

The larva will then leave the hive and burrow into the ground beneath the hive to pupate and then will return to the hive, which is located by the use of a yeast by the beetle. There are small traps that can be used to trap small hive beetles, but the best defense is having a strong honey bee colony.

Good pattern for eggs. One per cell and grouped together.

Checking Laying Patterns

It is necessary to check the egg pattern in the honey bee hive to verify the queen is still alive and laying well. If the queen is dead, the beekeeper will not find any eggs, or if there are multiple eggs per cell, then a worker bee is laying eggs, and this is not a good situation either.

If the queen is missing, the options are to purchase a mated queen or let the hive create a new queen. Considerations for which to do would be time involved; currently, a new honey bee queen is around $30 to $35, how the last queen performed, aggression level acceptable, etc.

If a worker honey bee is laying, the solution is rather easy. A beekeeper will still need to make the decision about purchasing a queen or letting the hive create one with the same considerations as above. But to remove the worker bee that is laying eggs, it is as easy as dumping the bees out about 10–15 yards from the beehive.

The worker bee that is laying the eggs will not have mapped the area and will not know how to return to the beehive. You will lose some other bees as well, but the bees that are currently working will not have an issue returning to the beehive.

Honey Supers

A beekeeper wants to verify that all the honey supers, frames, and foundations are clean and ready to be placed on the beehive for honey collection. Paying attention to nectar flows for when to place them, the beehive does need to be close to full for the honey bees to place honey in the honey super.

Some beekeepers will use a queen excluder to keep the queen from entering the super where they want surplus honey to be placed. But if the production of brood, pollen collection, and honey has been going smoothly, then it shouldn't be much of an issue because once the bees start, the queen generally won't enter this level to lay eggs.

I do not use queen excluders and have only had a queen once lay eggs in a honey super. Generally, the queen won't walk over a frame that is full; she is looking for empty cells to lay eggs in. But it is good to have these boxes all ready to go for when the nectar starts to run.

Monitoring Production

There are multiple ways that beekeepers monitor production. Some beekeepers will open the hive to look, others will go by weight, and some beekeepers wait until the end of the season to collect.

One of the easier methods is to have two hive tops with a medium or honey super sitting on one that is upside down. As a super that is full of honey is taken from the beehive and the bees removed, take an empty frame from the super that is sitting on the upside-down top and put the honey-filled frame in. Place the other beehive top on the super sitting on the upside-down top to keep bees away from it. Continue this until the honey-filled frames are removed, adding another honey super on as needed.

Other Seasons

If you would like to read about what beekeepers do in other seasons as well, I hope you will read "What Do Beekeepers Do in Winter." If you have any questions, please post as a comment, and I will answer as soon as possible.

© 2018 Chris Andrews

Chris Andrews (author) from Ohio on August 29, 2018:

Glad you read the article and enjoyed it.

Joyce Dykstra on August 29, 2018:

Nice job!


What happens to bees in the winter?

Our precious British bees have various strategies for coping with the winter months. Find out more about how they survive the cold weather.

Huddling honeybees

When it gets too cold to work and fly, Honeybees huddle together in the hive to retain warmth. The ultimate aim is to keep the queen snug in the centre. Being hive-bound, their honey stores provide a crucial lifeline, keeping up their energy levels. However, since they are awake they are ready to go and seek out fresh nectar on warmer winter days.

Bee-keepers may provide their colonies with feeders of sugar syrup to keep them going through these leaner months, especially if they have taken honey that year. This is the time when feral colonies (those away from hives such as in tree holes) often perish, but their fortunes appear to be changing, perhaps due to milder winters.

Burrowing bumblebees

The various species of British bumblebee have a very different strategy to honeybees. They have an annual life cycle. After the new queens are produced and mate in the summer and autumn, the workers, males and old queens die off by winter time.

Typically, the newly-mated queens hibernate through winter. They burrow into soft earth or under logs and stones to escape the frost, preferring north-facing banks where they will avoid being warmed up too early by the winter sun. Despite this, some may still emerge confused on warm winter days.

However, over the past decade or so, things are changing. Some queens choose to start new nests instead of hibernating. These overwintering nests are more common in the milder southern counties, especially in urban areas where they are fueled by winter-flowering garden plants, such as mahonia and heathers.

This increasing trend was first noticed in the Buff-tailed bumblebee, but the Early bumblebee and Tree bumblebee are following suit. This phenomenon has even seen bumblebees flying on Christmas and New Year’s day! You can record your sightings of winter-active bumblebees on the Bees, Wasps and Ants Recording Society website.

Sleepy solitary bees

Solitary bees are diverse, with varied lifestyles and you can learn to identify different types with our handy bee identification guide. They overwinter in different ways depending on the species. Unlike honeybees and bumblebees, all the adults generally die off before winter comes. The hard-working females have left their eggs sealed inside a nest in a cavity or burrow, provided with food stores of pollen and nectar. They even line their nests with waterproof secretions, to protect their young from damp.

Solitary bees which emerge in the spring, such as Tawny mining bees, Ashy mining bees and Red mason bees will grow from egg to adult over the summer. During the winter, the new adults sit tight in their cocoons in a sleepy state of torpor. In this way, they are primed and ready to break out when the temperature rises, so they can take advantage of spring blossoms such as willow, blackthorn, hawthorn and orchard trees.

If the nests are dug out by people or other animals, the bees will evacuate early, which could explain winter sightings of some solitary bees.

Solitary bees which emerge in late spring or summer, such as Leafcutter bees, Wool carder bees and Yellow-faced bees will grow from egg to larva (grub) over the summer, and overwinter in their larval stage. Since it may be too cold to feed and grow, these larvae also enter a state of torpor where they use little energy. Come spring, they will pupate and turn into adults which fly out to feed on summer blooms.

Few solitary bee species overwinter as adults in the UK. Some Furrow bees are notable exceptions. They mate in the autumn, after which the females may go to ground in a burrow over winter, emerging to nest and lay eggs the following spring. This only happens in the Southern counties, where the milder weather allows for an autumn mating season. On warm winter days in the south, the overwintering southern females may make excursions to feed. In Cornwall, some have even been seen as early as January.

How to help bees during the winter

  1. Plant winter-flowering plants Plants such as mahonia, heathers, winter honeysuckle, winter aconite, hellebores and snowdrop will provide food for overwintering bumblebees and others emerging on warm winter days.

How many of these top tips for helping bees do you know?

How many of these top tips for helping bees do you know?


Mason Bees and How to Care for Them

What are Mason Bees?

Osmia lignaria propinqua, or Blue orchard Mason Bees, are non-aggressive bees that live in solitary nesting tubes. They are smaller than honeybees and do not live in hives. Mason bees are excellent pollinators, demonstrating 95% pollination success compared to honey bees, which typically pollinate about 5% of the flowers they visit in a day. Also, they are cold hardy and resistant to disease as long as their homes are kept clean, so they are easy to maintain year after year. Click this link to read about Purchasing our live Mason Bees.

How do I care for my bees when they arrive?

If your trees are flowering:

Remove the container from the shipping package, and place the box of bees near their new homes outside. If your bee house has an “attic” to place the bees, then you can set the box on the shelf with the lid open, or make a 5/16” hole on the side of the box. You can also use tape to attach the bee box to the bottom of your nesting block, with the lid open. Generally, it takes one to four days above 55º F for the bees to begin emerging. You can purchase our Mason Bee Kit which includes the House and nesting block. There are also many DIY examples of mason bee homes too!

If you are keeping the bees dormant:

If it is not time for your bees to hatch, you can place the mason bee box in a cool, dark place to keep them dormant, such as a garage that stays between 40°F-50°F or a refrigerator.

Placing your nests

Choose a place with shelter from the wind and rain, out of reach from pets and small children. Hang the house so that the tubes are horizontal. Placing the nest within 200 to 300 feet from a nectar source is important because mason bees do not travel long distances.

Mason bees like morning sun during their active stage, between March and early June. During the summer they need shade while the larva are hatching in the tubes. Good spots for placing nests are close under the eaves of the east facing side of a house, or 5-8 feet high on a solid branch of a deciduous tree.

Requirements for mason bees in the garden

  • Moist clay soil – the female bees need moist clay to build the cell walls in the nesting chamber. Soil that is too sandy will crumble. You can set out a container of clay powder if your soil is not naturally high in clay.
  • Spring flowering plants close to the nest – Fruit trees such as apple, cherry, peach, pear, and plum are ideal. Mason bees prefer single flowers to showy hybrids and double-blossoms, which may not provide adequate nutrition.
  • Other flowering plants – Blue, purple, or yellow blossoms that bloom during the lifespan of the adults are most attractive to mason bees.

Long-term Mason Bee care

Adult bees stop foraging by early summer, and so you will stop seeing bee activity in the garden. The cocoons that have been laid inside the nesting boxes will mature over the summer until they are fully developed as adults by the fall. The adults overwinter inside the cocoon. Care can be taken to ensure higher emergence of young bees in the spring by protecting the developing larvae, and harvesting and cleaning the cocoons.

STORING NESTING TUBES AND BLOCKS (July to August)

Blocks and tubes can stay outside, but you can have better population growth if you move the nesting tubes or boxes to a protected storage area to prevent predators from feeding on the developing bees. They can be placed inside a sealed paper bag or cardboard box protected from mice, or in a plastic container with ventilation holes. They need a well-ventilated space with summer warmth to fully develop (like a garage or shed).

HARVESTING COCOONS (October to November)

Cocoons can be removed from the nesting block or tube, being careful not to damage the adult bee inside. Stacked trays can be taken apart, and the cocoons removed using a flat head screwdriver to gently scrape the hole. Cardboard and paper tubes can be carefully sliced open and peeled apart.

One method for cleaning the cocoons is to “wash” them with sand. Use your hands to lightly mix or stir the cocoons in a bowl containing dry sand. The sand rubbing against the cocoon dislodges mites, mud particles, pollen, and frass (the larva’s excrement). Use a screen or strainer to separate the cocoons from the sand. Place cleaned cocoons in a container with air holes in a cool, dark environment with 60-70% humidity (you can use a household refrigerator).

In case of extreme mite damage, the cocoons can be rinsed in a bleach solution. For 1 to 2 minutes, swirl the cocoons in a bowl filled with 5% bleach solution (1 tablespoon of household bleach into 8 cups of cool water). Place cocoons on a screen or towel and allow them to dry thoroughly before storing.


To make a nuc

There are a couple of ways you can make your nucs. By installing a new Queen or by setting the nuc up with a swarm-cell. And you can either set your new colony up in a nuc-box or an 8 or 10-frame brood box.

Either way the formula is the same. Nucs require everything that a full-sized colony has:

Honey or nectar to eat–nectar is preferable since nurse bees eat nectar.

  • Pollen to feed the larvae.
  • A mix of brood in all stages: eggs, larvae, and sealed brood–2-3 frames per nuc.
  • Drawn comb or foundation.
  • A Queen or a swarm-cell for the potential of a Queen.
  • Basically you’re going to mix and match frames from your various hives to fill your nuc or brood boxes. Go through your hives looking for frames that fill the above criteria and looking for the Queen at the same time. You’ll want to know where she is so that you can leave her in the parent hive.

    Position the brood in the center of the box, with your frame of comb or foundation next to it, and the food on the outside.

    Add a Queen–or a frame bearing your swarm-cell–and you’re good to go! Load up your nucs and move them either to a temporary location while the new colony adapts to it’s new members and conditions, to be moved back to the apiary in a few weeks, or move them to their permanent location at a separate apiary location altogether.


    10 Things You Didn't Know About Bumblebees: The Friendly, Fuzzy Bee

    The bumblebee is the largest and gentlest of bees—and a pollination champ! We answer some common questions about bumblebees—and find out which flowers can attract (and help) our fuzzy friends.

    After reading last fall about the drastic decline in bumblebee populations in my state, I feared I would not see the black-and-yellow bombers this spring, so I was greatly relieved when they visited my early-blossoming ‘Purple Gem’ and ‘Olga Mezitt’ rhododendrons last week.

    There were so many bumblebees and they moved so fast from flower to flower in search of pollen and nectar that it was hard to get one to stand still long enough to get a good picture. They are fast workers and, because of their larger bodies, can carry larger loads.

    1. Are Bumblebees Good Pollinators?

    Yes! Bumblebees are excellent pollinators—much more efficient pollinators than honeybees, in fact. They mainly forage for pollen rather than nectar, and transfer more pollen to the pistils of the flowers with each visit.

    Many crops are well suited to natural pollination by bumblebees, including cucumbers, peppers, tomatoes, seed crops, strawberries, blueberries, raspberries, melons, and squash. They are especially attracted to tube-shaped flowers.

    Female worker bees do the collecting of nectar and pollen. They perform a unique service called “buzz pollination” by grabbing the pollen producing part of the plant in their jaws and vibrating their wing muscles to loosen trapped pollen. Bumblebees’ wings beat more than 130 times per second!

    If you can get one to hold still long enough, look closely and you’ll notice the pollen basket (or “corbicula”) on its rear legs where it stashes a load of pollen to carry back to the nest. Crops such as tomatoes, peppers, berries, and cranberries bear better fruits if they are buzz pollinated. The flowers on berries are enclosed, so it takes a bumblebee’s long “tongue” to get to the plant’s nectar.

    2. Which Flowers Attract Bumblebees?

    Bumblebees have to work harder than ever to find food and shelter due to habitat loss and the overuse of pesticides.

    To attract bumblebees and other native bee species, consider native plants—such as asters, coneflowers (Echinacea spp.), lupines, bee balm (Monarda spp.), and spring ephemerals. However, bumblebees are not fussy anything that produces nectar and pollen works for them! If you plant even a small area or a few containers with flowering plants, the bees will find them.

    Plan your garden to have a long season of bloom. Bumblebees are able to fly in cooler temperatures and lower light conditions than other bees, making them among the first pollinators you’ll see in the spring and the last ones flying in the fall. Unfortunately, this ability also makes them more vulnerable to agricultural pesticides and herbicides, which are usually sprayed in early morning and later in the day to avoid harming the honeybees that are active during the middle of the day.

    • For spring, try planting crocuses, Virginia bluebells, lungwort, comfrey, hellebore, California poppies, columbine, low-growing phlox, or spring ephemerals.
    • For early and late summer, plant coneflowers, sunflowers, black-eyed susans, bee balm, gentian, larkspur, or tall phlox.
    • For fall, when it gets harder to find nectar, try planting fall bloomers such as salvia, wild geranium, anemone, basil, chives, cilantro, and parsley.

    3. How Do Bumblebees Fly?

    There are about 45 species of bumblebees (Bombus) in the United States alone. These large bees are round and fuzzy with short, stubby wings.

    You have to wonder how these big round bees fly so well. A recent study showed how the tiny wings keep the bees aloft: Bumblebees flap their wings back and forth rather than up and down. Apparently, bumblebees’ wings are more similar to a helicopter propellor than an airplane.

    4. Do Bumblebees Make Honey?

    Yes, but not enough to be a source for human consumption. Bumblebees make a small amount of honey, just enough to tide them over a few days of bad weather. They can maintain about a week’s worth of food in their bodies, so they need to forage regularly to survive. Early-blooming trees and shrubs, like fruit trees, pussy willows, and serviceberry, are especially necessary to give the newly emerging queens some nourishment as they wake up and start their new colonies. The whole hive dies off in late fall, leaving just new, mated queens to start new colonies in the spring. If even one new queen dies, a whole potential colony will be lost.

    Despite the fact that they don’t produce much honey, the pollination service that bumblebees provide is worth far more than any amount of honey!

    5. Do Bumblebees Sting?

    Bumblebees rarely string, though they are able. They are generally very docile. They do not form swarms like other communal bees and they only sting when truly provoked.

    Only female bumble bees have stingers. But they are so good-natured that getting a female to sting you is a major undertaking.

    According to BumbleBee.org, a bumblebee will even warn you before it stings. It will stick up a middle leg if it’s annoyed by your presence, which means “back off!”.

    They will really only become aggressive if you are bothering their nest. Bumbles can sting more than once, however, their sting lacks barbs and a stinger is not left behind.

    Ever noticed how bumblebees just “bumble around” in the early morning, moving slowly? Their Teddy-bear fur and their ability to regulate body temperature allows bumble bees to be out and about on cold mornings, but they can’t fly until they have warmed up.

    At this point, they may even sit quietly in your hand and let you gently pet their furry bodies.

    6. So, Are Bumblebees Friendly?

    We can’t speak to human-bee friendships, but bumblebees are a naturally social bee, living together in groups called colonies. Colonies may contain between 50 and 500 individuals, according to the National Wildlife Federation, whereas honeybee hives may have 50,000!

    7. Where do Bumblebees Live?

    Bumblebees have small nests, between the size of a baseball and a softball. Unlike a honeybee hive, bumblebees usually nest close to the ground or even underground, in stone walls, under clumps of grass, or in hollow trees and stumps. Abandoned mouse holes are a favorite since they come complete with a warm fur lining.

    Bumbles stay close to home. After foraging at various flowers, they carry their collected pollen and nectar back to the nest to feed.

    Unlike honeybees, the bumblebee colony dies in late fall. The queen (who rules the colony) is the only member of a bumblebee colony to survive the winter! She hibernates during the winter months underground and starts a new colony in the spring.

    8. Do Bumblebees Sleep?

    Yes, of course! Male bees will also sleep outside, after they leave the nest (never to return). Sometimes, it’s the female who’s caught outside the nest because the temperature cooled so rapidly that she couldn’t fly back she’ll wait until morning to bring her pollen back to the nest. Usually, you’ll find resting bumblebees under flowers or even inside them!

    9. Bee Populations Are in Decline. Are Bumblebees in Trouble, Too?

    Yes. Many bumblebees are listed as endangered, vulnerable, or near threatened.

    Last year, the rusty patched bumblebee (Bombus affinis) was the first bee listed as an endangered species in the continental U.S., and it is thought to be extinct here in New Hampshire—the last recorded sighting of it being in 1993! According to the Dept. of Agriculture, the decline in bumblebee populations can be blamed on the 5 “P’s”—parasites, pests, pathogens, poor nutrition, and pesticides.

    10. How Do I Attract Bumblebees to My Yard?

    If you notice a lack of bees in your yard, consider whether your neighborhood uses a lot of pesticides in their lawns and gardens. You may have your answer!

    At minimum, try to eliminate pesticides from your garden. A group of insecticides called neonicotinoids have been shown to have a devastating effect on all types of bees. It is a systemic insecticide that can come from pre-treated seeds or sprays applied to bedding plants. The chemical is present in every part of the treated plant—flowers, stems, leaves, etc. Buy organic whenever possible or ask your local nursery to make sure that no systemics were used on the plants you are purchasing.

    To provide nesting sites, leave some part of your yard a little wild and brushy. Don’t mow or rake there, and leave some plant stems standing over the winter to give the new queens places to hibernate and spots to establish new colonies in the spring.

    See our video showing easy ways to attract bees to the garden for more flowers and food!


    Watch the video: Spring Bee here Soon for Beekeepers